Відео

Plastic with fiber glass keys for respect the materials and not destroy the paint

Thank you for all your shared knowledge dave! I recently bought a 2020 Multistrada 950 and went through the suspension set up process (Preload Set-Up for Sag, Compression and Bounce-Tests) after binge watching basically all your videos. From your expertise, do you recall the Multi 950 Forks and Shock to be rather soft? I'm about 96kg 192cm and with preload turned ALL the way in to the max I still get a rider sag of about 70mm, static sag being around 40mm. Same goes for front and back adjustments.

Great explanation but you didn’t actually show how to do it

Dave I count find your mobile app just got a 16 cbr1krr and in need of a little tuning

I wouldve thought everyone did this when they first get a bike. Like no way I'm using whatever jank settings were set from the previous owner. I set them up to what feels good as soon as I get it home and then fine tune it over the first few rides.

I have a question. I recently got a new 2023 GSX-R1000 and the spring looks like the one depicted at 2:00 -- at the top where the end of the spring touches the coil, I am seeing wear on the coil from the spring end rubbing against the coil, causing paint to rub off, etc. Is this normal? Is it a sign the spring isn't properly adjusted? Manufacturing defect?

Stay with one bike and check three weights of people, why are you jumping around,, This vid sucks..

Awesome advice. Thank you

Shouldn't you check chain slack with your weight on the bike?

Motorcycle chiropractor lol

Warning: Dave Moss doesn't play the piano. He uses the four finger numbering system and refers to his index finger as his first finger - just like a guitarist. Road riders normally use the five finger numbering system because the left thumb normally controls the indicators and the horn.

I have a question about throttle position. Iv adjusted my levers on my 1999 ducati 750ss but I feel like my throttle needs rotating forward a little to reduce the angle of my wrist while accelerating. My problem is the throttle housing is pinned in to the bar and the bar is pinned in to clamp so I can't easily rotate either without modification. I could rotate the clip on and then drill the recess in the bar for the bolt or I can remove the pin from the throttle. Do you think either method will be safe? And which would be preferable? Thanks.

Yeah aftert a few rides I noticed my Ninja 500 has me sitting too close to the bars, the gas tank is in the way compared to the GSX-8R plus I liked that bikes handlebars better. Also I put on a tiny bit of muscle on my legs and that made the Ninja really uncomfortable and I plan on getting even heavier due to working out to get stronger for my job requirements.

I wish it shown more lol

@Dave Moss Tuning how r u dave?? Havent posted i a while just wondering if everything is ok with you sir... If you would like that i bet anyone over here and in the community would love for you to have some Live videos of some track days tunings or just casual stuff you know... could bet money that youre channel will skyrocket just by broadcasting you daily work routine... Also sir i would like to thank you for all the knowledge you actually saving lives sir, with all you have done over here regardless if you will continue to do more videos or not 🙏🙏 much appriciation sir all the best💪🏽💪🏽

Dave. Is this bike sag rider sag rule for progressive springs or all springs? My zx14r weights 270 kg so 135kg per wheel more less. I weight 95kg so extra 47kg per wheel. You are saying that 47kg should compress the spring twice as much as 135kg? I can't logically understand why.

Santa ist religion, it's pegan I guess like you.. so you should live christmas.. look up the origins of it.. lol. Lost my sub here,,

Hello again Dave, re fork oil, a UA-cam video doing up a set of PanigaleS 1199 forks said to suck measure the oil level but my manual says fill by volume. Could you please shed some info on this?

Always my tailbone and wrists but I ride dual sport

I usually rebuild my calipers after each season. I used to clean it but the price and amount of time to rebuild is a better option for me. Brakes stay feeling brand new.

Thank you for the video, i have a new bike and too much play is bithering me with slow speed control, i guess the dealers dont really do much setting up for these things

So for a 200lbs i would go 135mm spacer, 15w oil and 415cc? 😁

the camera going up and down in the suspension set up is making me sick

What is that ticking sound on the fork when you going up and down, Reason I ask is I had my forks rebuilt and one sounds like it got that ticking sound the other one is quite

would love to have this in my town

4 years later, still the best information available on the topic. 42/36PSI (2,9/2,5BAR) recommended for every bike ever? I ride a 2015 Yamaha FJR1300, big heavy sports tourer, this exact pressure is stamped on the bike. My situation is that I drive daily at speed limits in city traffic, but when I go to rallies I load it up with all the luggage and weigh it down even more, then I drive much harder over long hauls with tons of corners ranging from sweeping turns to shorter/tighter corners flicking back and forth. Just ordered new tires as the ones that came with the bike ended up badly cupped after this years first rally, front is literally undriveable at over 80 km/h (50 m/h or so). Given that my front had the same tire pressure as a bike+rider weighing almost half as much again I shouldn't be surprised. Putting Dunlop Roadsmart 4GT on next week, I'll do this exact testing and start at 42/42 baseline. Bike+rider should be approx 50kg heavier than Dave's exambple, but I live in Northern Norway, climate is much colder and should average at 15-25 degrees Celsius (59-77F). I'll also do a separate benchmark for when the bike is fully laden. Additionally, I've order a new Wilbers shock for the rear that's fully adjustable, and new progressive springs for the front, I'll need new settings for that as well in different scenarios. So happy I've found Dave's channel and website, subscribed both here and on the website and will most likely contact Dave for remote tuning once I got my new suspension, can't think of anyone I'd trust more to guide me :D

I have this bike and no idea WTF he's saying but man he knows everything.

What about brake parts cleaner and a brush? Do you not recommend?

I don't care what your research says. I have better stuff to to with my life than change brake fluid every 90 days.

I would like to see you on the modified motorcycle. To me it seems that the original handlebars looked good for you. Why is it more comfortable to lean more forward?

Genius!!

Please note that you need to pay to see the video. This is just an introduction - a kind of scam if you will.

How do you tell if suspension is too harsh due to preload or compression damping

Hi dave i got a 2008 r1 how and i am 90kg without helmet etc how to fix my suspension for track ?

Good video cheers, versys 650 same engine but with comfort would be my recommendation.

Compression - pre-loading. Sorry for peeing

Tyre

I use an ass-meter for years. Works every time. 10-12k miles every set.

I came here to see how you put the calipers back together without destroying the new seals. Grease was my first choice also. Thanks for the confirmation. I just completed tearing down my 2004 600RR's front calipers and I learned 2 things. 1) 100 psi of compressed air and a sealed chamber make a deadly projectile. 2) Using (2) "C" clamps (large vice grips) is way safer. I clamped one inside each piston and left about 2-3mm of space for the piston to move out. You're not marring the back of the calipers as the vice grips are loose but locked. Now each time you use compressed air you can control the removal of the pistons by loosening the vice grips a little at a time until both pistons are all the way out. It takes 3-4 times but it's way easier and safer. There's no more need to endanger fingers, teeth, and eyes. I'm blessed to still have all mine. I did find the piston though...

Thanks. Another great video. In my case I adjust the levers the way you do it, sitting as if I was in 'race mode', with my weight probably slightly more towards the front rather than in a relaxed position. That changes down the lever angle a little bit, it makes me lower them a couple of degrees more. Probably fine millimetric adjustments like this one make no difference. The important thing as you said is that nothing is getting in the way and that you set the appropriate distance as well. You have a radial pump, I have an axial one, yours should give you more feel. I don't have the knob with numbers to set the distance, but I do it by moving the lever along the handlebar towards the bike, that also gives me (at least to me) more feel as by doing so, I get more leverage (it compensates a bit the fact that it's axial rather than radial). Thanks again

Thank you Dave! I never thought of pulling the lever while tightening, makes perfect sense, I've just done it after watching your video. What I used to do was simply pull the lever until you can feel it brakes, then tighten, but keep the lever pulled makes more sense, even though with floating discs it might never be absolutely perfect. As far as cleaning I do it like you, and also use compressed air. Thank you, just discovered your channel, I'm sure I'll find some other useful videos. One little tip for you, if I may, when I work on low part of the motorcycle I don't use a chair but I sit on the floor, that keeps my back straight and it helps in the long run, particularly if you work a lot. You probably already know this and chose the chair not to be in the way of the camera, but it's something that should be kept in mind. I'm 45, so I'm starting to look after my back as much as possible so that I can ride small sports bikes for hours without straining my muscles. Keep up the good work.

I wanna have the baby of the dude wearing the Red Sox hat.

So for the U.S. I double the Cautionary limit signs 04 cbr1000rr and my suspension (ohlins)guy characterizes that as "conservative riding" I'm running 32 psi F&R Michelin pilot 2ct. Thoughts?

Stupid Rich people own bikes over 750 cc ... because the added weight + hp .. doesnt help go faster ! makes up for there weener size maybe ? mpg gets were you could drive a car and do better! im 650 savage : cheep .. 400 lbs 72 mpg.. im green for the enviroment! im cheep on parts.. easy on tires 3x of a harley last longer!!!! im 26 lbs cold and tote tools+ lunchbox . A 450 honda four can do 130 mph .. still get 50+mpg..why go so big.. 1200 or 1700. soo stupid.. they toteing there coffin with them ..if fall on them! hvy bikes need tite tire to keep shape.. light bike does it at lower psi + moregive when bumps!

I LOVE that you quoted my favorite Monty Python movie, so very underrated lol.

How does that frame handle the horsepower?

Cheers 👌

I had the same problem with my "stove knob" key. I used a paper towel to pad it and pliers to pull. Probably hadn't been removed in years. Cleaned off old grease, spray lube on key then worked it, all good now.

The ideal position of the brake lever is tricky to me, considering that you can reach it quicker following acceleration if it's tilted further upwards but I guess the question is where is your wrist position the most amount of time? Probably at 1/4 throttle or so to maintain speed.